Questions To Ask Breeders
Going to see a litter of pups can be a very exciting time &
also quite daunting. Be sure to follow common sense & do not be guided by
your heart alone! Here are a few questions you may wish to ask the breeder.
The list is by no means infinite, but it should at least give you room for
thought.
A good breeder will expect you to ask questions, he or she will also wish to
know a great deal about you, your home and your lifestyle. Please be very
cautious about breeders who are not interested in you or the home you are
offering the puppy, equally so you should be cautious of a breeder who is
not happy about you asking them any questions!
| NUMBER OF LITTERS |
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How many litters does the breeder have each year? |
Most ‘hobby’ breeders will have between one
and four litters a year. An excessive number of litters can indicate the breeder
is a commercial breeder. Remember that quantity vs. quality can be
interchangeable! A person can breed one litter badly whereas another can breed 5
or 6 to high standards!
It is not unusual to find that show breeders (& working breeders) may have two
litters simultaneously. Breeding plans (for future show/working dogs) are made
years in advance. Breeders are often faced with seasons coinciding and will,
after careful consideration of the work involved, breed two litters close
together.
This is perfectly acceptable for show/working breeders but not the norm for
"pet" breeders i.e. people who have no outside interest in dogs (showing/working
etc.)
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| NUMBER OF BREEDS OWNED |
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Does the breeder breed only Cockers (or perhaps one or
two other breeds)? |
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If the breeder has a selection of puppies available from different breeds then
the chances are high that this is a
commercial breeder or
puppy farmer and you should be wary of buying a puppy under these
circumstances. |
| HOBBIES/CANINE ACTIVITIES |
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Ask the breeder what activities/hobbies they do with
their dogs? |
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Reputable breeders will normally be involved with activities with their dogs
i.e. dog showing, obedience, agility, field trials, shooting etc. etc. Be wary
of breeders who only keep dogs as 'pets' or for breeding only as often these
types of breeder have no commitment to the breed & may only keep dogs to earn an
income. |
| HEALTH SCREENING FOR HEREDITARY DISEASES |
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Have the parents been screened for breed particular
hereditary disease? |
Conscientious & caring breeders will health screen their breeding stock! The
only way to ensure the puppy you are buying is unaffected (or the risk of
inheritance is minimal e.g. in the case of hip-scoring) with the known
hereditary diseases (diseases where testing is available) is to ensure the
parents of the puppy have been tested (& have appropriate results)!
For Cocker Spaniels: -
Both parent's should be DNA tested (or their genetic status known via parentage,
with at least one parent being 'Clear') for
prcd-PRA. The company responsible for PRA testing is
OptiGen. The test is a
DNA
(genetic) test which looks for the presence or absence of the mutant gene
responsible for the disease.
Both parent's should be DNA tested (or genetically Clear via parentage) for
FN. There are two companies responsible for FN testing :
OptiGen and Antagene. The test is a DNA (genetic) test which looks for the
presence or absence of the mutant gene responsible for the disease.
Both parent's should be screened under the
KC/BVA Eye Scheme by a Veterinary ophthalmologist and have "unaffected"
results. Please note, this is a specific test, it is not a routine eye check-up
carried out by a breeders own vet (unless of course he's a qualified eye
panellist)!
Ideally the parents of your puppy should have been hip scored (hopefully with
scores equal to or below the BMS!) for signs of hip dysplasia? Hip scoring is
carried out by the
KC/BVA.
Breeders who tell you that there is no need to test, as there are no problems in
"their" dogs are "putting their head in the sand.” Of course there are no
problems if you don't look for them, the only way to categorically say there are
no health issues is to test your dogs and breed from dogs with appropriate
results!
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| PUPPY/DOG LIVING ENVIRONMENT |
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Are the puppies reared in the house or a kennel? |
If they are reared in the house, they should be confident and comfortable with
their surroundings. If they are kennel reared and then brought into the house,
unless well socialised by the breeder, they may well be nervous and timid about
their surroundings.
The house should be clean (give or take a few stray dog hairs or paw prints!),
homes with multiple dogs can be a bit "doggy" particularly if the weather is wet
but should be basically clean and tidy.
If you arrive to find a less than clean house but the dogs are immaculate then
you can assume that all the breeders’ time is taken up with caring for their
dogs. However if the dogs and their kennel/living area are scruffy too then it
might be wise to presume that little attention has been paid to either the dogs
or their living conditions and you should seriously consider how committed the
breeder is? |
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Ask whether the breeder is a member of the Kennel Club
Assured Breeder Scheme? |
Some, but not all, reputable breeders are members of the
KC ABS. Unfortunately some less desirable breeders are also members of the
scheme. Unless a breeder has been personally visited & inspected
by a Breed Advisor from the Kennel Club, do not assume a breeder is reputable
based solely on their ABS membership, always make your own mind up!
Membership of the scheme is open to all breeders - including
commercial breeders - the more discerning & the less discerning, but excluding
known 'puppy farmers'. Members are not normally inspected at the point of
joining the scheme, as a result many poor breeders may be 'Assured Breeders'
until the KC eventually get around to visiting them.
In 2010, the KC appointed several more Breed Advisors & as a result,
they are now able to move the inspection process forward a little faster than
before. January - June 2010, following inspections, 20% of those visited have
been found to be NOT meeting the requirements of the Scheme & have had their
membership suspended. Additionally, 60% of members have resigned from the Scheme
voluntarily to avoid an inspection.
Good news in July 2010, at long last the KC have tightened up the health testing
regulations that are mandatory for ABS, DNA testing for PRA & FN are now
MANDATORY for Cockers - about time too! Undoubtedly this will lead to further
resignations from the Scheme, however it has never been right & proper for a
breeder who does not demonstrate a commitment to the health of their puppies to
be members of a Scheme promoting health & welfare. |
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Ask what age puppies leave their breeder? |
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Puppies should not leave their breeder before they are approximately 8 weeks old, possibly older for smaller breed puppies. For socialisation
& normal canine behaviour skills puppies should remain with their mother up to around 8 weeks of age. Taking a puppy home before he is at least
7 ½ weeks old will prevent him from learning valuable skills from his mother
& may easily lead to a puppy that grows up with behavioural problems.
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| HEALTH |
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Ask the breeder about health conditions occasionally found in the breed? |
Reputable & knowledgeable breeders will be fully informed about any health
issues known to occasionally crop up in the breed & should be able to tell you
what they are, the causes, symptoms, possible treatments & any effect they may
have on the wellbeing of a puppy/dog. They will also honestly tell you if any
dogs of their breeding has ever encountered any of the conditions.
Be wary of breeders who will tell you that there are no health problems in a
breed or there are problems but not with their dogs! All breeds of dogs (mongrels/cross-breeds included) have some health
issues (as do humans & other animals!) Dogs are living beings & just like any
other living being, various ailments can occasionally occur. |
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Ask if the puppy will be Vet checked prior to leaving the
breeder? |
Good breeders will have their puppies fully examined by their Vet (to ensure
they are physically healthy with no clinical signs of illness or parasites etc.)
before the pups leave for their new homes.
The Vet will also check for such things as heart murmurs, hernias, cleft
palates, any other deformities and the presence of testicles (in males). As with
all things controlled by nature it can occasionally be the case that some pups
are not 100% perfect.
Given full information about a condition (if any) both the breeder and purchaser
can decide whether they wish to sell or buy the pup and whether the condition
will have an impact on the pups future health and wellbeing.
Minor problems don't usually have any detrimental effect on the pup or its
ability to be a loyal and loving companion animal and you shouldn't
automatically reject a puppy who is otherwise healthy, well reared and from a
good breeder just because of, for example, a level bite (rather than a scissor
bite).
Reputable breeders will NEVER sell a puppy unless they are confident
(by way of a thorough veterinary examination of the puppy) that the puppy is in
good health and condition at the time of sale.
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| KENNEL CLUB REGISTRATION |
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Is the puppy registered with the UK Kennel Club? |
Most puppies are
registered with the UK Kennel Club, however some breeders choose not to
register their ‘pet’ puppies, this doesn't make them disreputable. However if
their pups are not registered, please do ask the reason why.
If their pups are registered, ask if your puppy is registered with The Kennel
Club - there are alternative registries; however reputable breeders ONLY
register their puppies with The Kennel Club. Dog Lovers Registration or Pedigree
Pets Registration Club is not the equivalent to Kennel Club Registration!
Whilst KC registration is not a guarantee of quality or indeed proof of your
puppy's pedigree, it is necessary if you plan to show, compete at some events
with your dog or breed from him/her. Ensure the registration documents are
given to you at the time of collecting your puppy. If for some reason
they are not available at the time you collect your puppy, ensure that details
about forwarding the registration documents to you are given in writing. Be very
wary of a breeder who tells you (verbally) they will forward the documents later.
Ask if the registration papers have been 'endorsed', if so ask the breeder to
explain this to you and ensure mention of any terms relating to the restrictions
is mentioned in your puppy sales contract.
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| SOCIALISATION |
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Have the puppies been well socialised by the breeder? |
Well socialised puppies (both by breeders and new owners) are more likely to
grow into confident and friendly dogs. Poorly socialised dogs are likely to
develop behavioural problems such as aggression and phobias. Good socialisation
by the breeder is of paramount importance when choosing a puppy.
Socialisation is an on-going process, the breeder should make a
start, however new owners must continue the work. Good breeders will supply
their puppy owners with recommended socialisation routines to help them continue
to effectively socialise their puppy.
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Ask how the breeders have socialised the puppy? |
Socialisation takes many forms, some is planned & some occurs naturally. Good
breeders will make deliberate efforts to
socialise puppies & not just rely on household activity.
Puppies brought up in the home will normally be accustomed to ‘house-hold’
noises i.e. washing machines, vacuum cleaners, music & general household
activities. This type of socialisation is important; however, it is the type
that occurs naturally.
Good breeders will also take puppies out for car rides, introduce them to other
dogs in their ownership, introduce them to a wide variety of visitors to the
home, introduce them to the garden, and acclimatise them to being
handled/groomed. Many will play ‘sound CD’s’ (CD’s containing a wide variety of
noises e.g. drills, fireworks, thunder etc.) as part of the process of
'habituating' a puppy to everyday occurrences. |
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| MEETING THE BREEDER |
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Can you see the puppy’s mother? |
You should be able to meet their mother; she should be comfortable with you
(overall) although she may be a little concerned when you approach or handle her
puppies (this is normal & quite understandable). How the mother looks and
behaves will give you some indication as to how your new pup will develop.
Please bear in mind that the mother might not be looking her best, its hard work
rearing a litter and most bitches can look a little tired and their coats may be
a little shabby due to the pups pulling at their coat! Maternal duties often mean
that bitches will loose their coat and may look a little thin (despite eating
vast quantities of food). Do not expect to see a glamorous show dog when you
visit! However, the Mum should look well groomed, clean and healthy.
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Does the breeder make you feel welcome? |
Committed & caring breeders are usually busy people; however, they welcome
would-be owners in order that both the potential owners and the breeder can
ensure that puppy ownership is right for the owner and that a breeder can feel
comfortable that the new owners will provide a good home for the puppy.
You should aim to meet your puppy, the litter & their mother prior to purchase.
The breeder should ask you many questions & likewise you should be asking
questions of the breeder.
Please be courteous to breeders, they are normally
welcoming you into their home & will be courteous to you, return the favour! At puppy rearing times they have many demands on their time, please give consideration to this and endeavour to work with the breeder regarding visiting times, duration of visits and any requests regarding the safety, health and welfare of the pups.
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| POTENTIAL OF THE PUPPY |
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Is the puppy sold as a 'pet' or does the breeder feel he
has possible show potential? |
When buying a puppy for show and/or a puppy with the possibility of breeding
from him/her in the future it's imperative that you choose/or are offered a
puppy who is free from obvious show "faults". Check the bite (teeth) of the
puppy to ensure they are a scissor bite and not undershot or a reverse scissor
bite etc. (please keep in mind that mouths in particular can change on young
pups), with a male puppy, check to ensure both testicles are descended into the
scrotum.
In the case of pet pups, these issues are not quite as important. In an ideal
world every pup born would have no obvious show "faults" however a healthy pup
from a good breeder is more important than a 100% perfect show specimen. Honest
breeders will advise you of any show "faults" a pup has and explain them fully.
Minor issues with teeth, slow to descend testicles etc. do crop up from time to
time, however if the pup is otherwise healthy this shouldn't overly influence
your decision not to purchase the pup as a pet/companion.
Show 'faults' do not detract from an otherwise healthy and well bred/reared
puppy, however when buying a puppy for show and/or possible breeding the future
it is important that the puppy has no obvious 'faults' as these seldom improve
as a dog matures. Breeding from any dog with an obvious deviation from the
'norm' is likely to perpetuate the fault in future generations.
If you are buying your pup from a "pet" breeder, it is unlikely that they will
know what "show faults" are and will not normally be able to advise a would-be
puppy buyer about the suitability of a puppy for the show ring. If you
are buying, a puppy to show it would be wise to purchase your pup from a "show"
breeder and not a "pet" breeder, breeders who show and/or judge the breed will
have the knowledge to give you sound advice. |
| HEALTH - WORMING &
VACCINATIONS |
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Has the puppy been regularly wormed? |
All puppies (& their mothers) should be routinely & regularly wormed. Generally,
this starts when a puppy is 2 - 3 weeks old & continues fortnightly whilst with
the breeder.
When a puppy moves to his new home, worming should continue fortnightly until a
puppy is approximately 12 weeks old, thereafter worming may be monthly or upon
the advice of an owner's vet. |
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Does the breeder give information to the new puppy owner
about worming & vaccinations? |
Worming (to eradicate any naturally occurring worms found in puppies/dogs) in is
important to the health of all puppies & dogs (& human health) and good breeders
should stress the importance of regular worming to their new puppy owners.
All good breeders should routinely worm their puppies regardless of whether a
worm burden is obvious. As breeders ourselves, we have NEVER seen one of our
pups with worms or any of our adult dogs, however we treat all puppies/dogs for
worms as a matter of routine on a regular basis.
A common parasite of dogs, especially puppies, is Roundworms. The scientific
name for their group is called ascarids. Intestinal worms help themselves to
your puppies food (via the digestive tract) and can damage the gut causing loss of
blood. Worms can also cause diarrhoea, dehydration & anaemia, and this may make
your puppy/dog susceptible to other diseases.
If breeders/owners study the lifecycle of Roundworms they will note that
puppies become infected by Roundworms whilst still in the womb. Even with a
fully wormed mother this event still happens. Therefore ALL puppies are born
with worms. Fortunately the lifecycle means that worms do not become active for
2 - 3 weeks, therefore commencing worming of puppies at 2 - 3 weeks of age &
repeated fortnightly (to mimic the lifecycle of the worm & to 'catch' any newly
hatched worm eggs that were not killed at the previous worming i.e. two weeks
earlier) will eradicate worms.
If a dog or puppy has a large worm
burden, he may cough, lose weight, and have a rough, dry coat or a 'pot-bellied'
appearance. In young puppies, a worm infestation can be even more serious, causing poor
growth and sometimes even death. If there are large numbers, of worms, the
intestine can become blocked and this may also be fatal. The larval form of this
parasite has the potential to cause serious disease in children and therefore
for the health of a dog and the human family regular worming of puppies/dogs
(using a veterinary supplied medication) should be undertaken.
With regard to vaccinations, all puppies should ideally be inoculated against
the common canine infectious diseases before venturing into the outside world.
This is initiated either by a breeder or by a new owner.
When to start the vaccination course varies from area to area and from vet to
vet. Some breeders may vaccinate their puppies before sale with the first part
of the Primary Vaccinations. Other breeders may choose not to, generally when
reputable breeders do not vaccinate pups prior to sale it is due to conflicting advice regarding the brands
of vaccine used. Sadly, many breeders who conscientiously vaccinate puppies
before sale have found that the new owner's vet insists the
course is started afresh due to using a different brand of vaccine. This
advice is not correct; however, it doesn't seem to prevent a vet from insisting
that the course should start again.
Repeating a vaccination so soon after an initial vaccination is not good for the
health of the puppy, cockers are a breed which occasionally suffer with
Autoimmune related diseases & these may be triggered by over vaccination - don't
let a vet put their desire to earn money over the welfare of your new puppy!
The important thing to note is whether any vaccines have been given and when. If
they have been given, new owners should be supplied with the 'Vaccination Record
Card'. If no vaccines have been given, breeders should advise owners when the
course should be started & give advice on keeping a puppy safe until vaccination
has been completed.
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| HEALTH & CONDITION |
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Are the puppy's coats shiny and the dogs healthy looking? |
Check the coat for signs of scurf or skin disease and parasites i.e. fleas or
lice. Puppies with parasites can indicate a less than scrupulous breeder.
Puppies should not be scratching themselves, the occasional scratch
is normal, particularly if the room is warm. Continual scratching indicates skin
problems or parasites.
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Does the puppy look plump and contented? Does the puppy
look healthy? |
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Are the puppy's eyes, ears and bottom clean and free from any discharge or
soiling? Check the puppies ears, healthy ears don't smell offensive (sometimes
there is a slight "earthy" smell but this is quite normal). Puppies
shouldn't have any obvious discharge from their eyes or ears & their bottoms
should be clean too! Eyes should be bright, noses wet and the puppy should look
in good condition. |
| PUPPY CARE PACK |
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Does the breeder supply each puppy with a care pack? |
In our opinion, sound & comprehensive care advice for puppies is important.
Clearly, a puppy is not a car or household item; however, most items we buy do
come with 'user' instructions. We believe that this should apply to puppies.
Taking on a new puppy is a serious commitment & one that can be full of joy but
equally can be hard work. Knowing how to correctly care for your puppy, how to
train him, how to socialise him, groom him etc. has benefits for the puppy; it
also enhances a new owners experience of dog ownership & can make ownership
easier and more pleasurable for all concerned.
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| CONTRACTS & DOCUMENTS |
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Does the breeder provide a Contract of Sale? |
Good breeders always sell their puppies with a Contract. The document varies
from breeder to breeder but broadly, it should contain details of the puppy, the
pup’s parents, date of birth, microchip no., details of any
'endorsements' & the terms for lifting and full details about health/welfare
together with the breeder’s commitment to the dog and the buyer. It will also
stipulate the purchaser’s commitment to the puppy.
Breeders who use contracts are being professional & showing their
commitment to the pups they breed. As new owners, you should be reassured by a
puppy Contract of Sale and not suspicious. Always read the contract before
signing and if anything concerns you ask for clarification.
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What other documentation is supplied? |
Usual documentation includes:
- Diet sheet
- Care advice/notes (socialisation/training/grooming/coping with play biting
etc.)
- Micro-Chip or tattoo registration form (showing details of the puppy &
chip/tattoo number etc.)
- Kennel Club registration documents
- Explanation about 'endorsements' (if applicable)
- Pedigree (either KC supplied or breeder printed)
- List of cocker spaniel breed club secretaries
- DEFRA 'docking certificate' (if applicable - only certain dogs may be
'docked' & this should be undertaken legally & certified by the vet & breeder on
official veterinary headed notepaper & signed by the vet & breeder)
Do not buy a cocker spaniel puppy with a docked tail unless the docking has been carried out
legally & the breeder supplies you with the official DEFRA approved docking
certificate (on headed vet notepaper & signed by the vet with the practice
stamp). All details on the certificate should match the puppy you have
bought including the micro-chip number (it is mandatory for the puppy to be
'chipped' by the vet who performed the docking).
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| INSURANCE |
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Will the breeder supply free insurance for the puppy
during the first few weeks in its new home? |
Good breeders will arrange insurance cover for four or more weeks free of
charge (the time span is dependent on the insurance company preferred by the
breeder) for each puppy they sell.
Despite being healthy in every regard, puppies are at their most vulnerable
during their early weeks in a new owner's home. They can have paws trapped in
doors, fall off furniture, chew fences & garden plants etc. which may result in
veterinary attention being required. Today's advances in veterinary medicine &
equipment can mean that vet bills are high. Even a simple visit can amount to
hundreds of pounds.
Pet insurance is essential for puppies/dogs. When a breeder pre-arranges a free
period of insurance this ensures the puppy has cover and gives new owners time
to arrange continuous insurance. As responsible owners, do not place yourself in
a position where the cost of treatment prevents you from meeting the health
needs of your new puppy/dog.
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| ADVICE & SUPPORT |
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Will the breeder be available to give support & advice
after you get the puppy home & for the duration of your dogs life? |
Good breeders ALWAYS offer advice & support to their new puppy owners for the life
of the dog (indeed many owners and breeders strike up lifelong friendships).
Many puppies can lead their new owners a 'merry dance', having a supportive
breeder at the end of the phone can make a huge difference to a new owners
enjoyment of their puppy/dog. Additionally, many breeders will offer to 'board' dogs whilst
owners are away from home which is generally a much happier experience for both
dog and owner. Some will also have puppies/dogs back for re-training
if the dog has become wayward due to inexperience in effective training by the
new owners.
Occasionally puppies/dogs may cause concern (mild illnesses, eating
inappropriate items in the garden etc.) & caring breeders will be on hand to
offer words of advice, reassurance and/or possibly advise you to consult your
vet.
The level of after-sales support offered by a breeder is very important and is an indication of a caring and responsible breeder.
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Will the breeder take the puppy/dog back for re-homing or
help the purchaser find a new home for the dog should this ever be needed? |
When you buy your puppy, you should be planning to own the dog for his lifetime.
Unfortunately, people's circumstances can change & despite their best
intentions, some owners may in the future no longer be able to care for their
dog.
It is always hard parting with a much loved pet due to a change in
circumstances and as responsible owners you will naturally want to secure you
dog’s future. Returning a puppy/dog to his breeder is the kindest of all
options. You will know the breeder & know they will care for the dog & you won’t
be placing the burden of responsibility on hard pressed ‘rescue’ kennels. The
dog will benefit greatly by going ‘home’ to his breeder & not having to face a
kennel life when he is used to ‘home comforts’.
Good breeders will ALWAYS offer to re-home or help find a new home for the dogs
they breed if the dog should unfortunately need a new home at some stage.
Ask the breeder if re-homing the dog in the future (if needed) is mentioned in
the Contract of Sale. If an owner needs to relinquish ownership of their dog, the breeder should always be the first point of contact. Reputable breeders do not like to find out (after the
event) that owners have parted with dogs as they like to know where their sold
puppies/dogs are to ensure that they remain well cared for and loved.
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| COST |
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At some stage, you will need to enquire about the price
of a puppy. |
A difficult area to discuss is the cost of the puppy. Good quality cocker
spaniel puppies from
reputable breeders will generally cost a little more than less well bred pups.
Generally speaking, the old adage still applies of "you get what you pay
for.” A breeder won't be offended at your enquiry about the price of a
puppy but please remember that cost shouldn't be your first question!
Beware of puppies offered for sale at less than the "going rate.” At the moment
the average cost of a cocker puppy from a recognised kennel (i.e. not from the
free ads papers, puppy farmers and "backyard" breeders etc.) is £750.00 -
£900.00 (there is some regional variation in prices.) However, it is worth
noting that some "backyard" breeders are now selling puppies for more than
puppies from an experienced and reputable show breeder which is another reason
why the cost of a puppy shouldn't be the deciding factor in choosing a breeder!
Whilst the price of a well-bred cocker spaniel puppy may seem excessive, you must remember that
your dog should, all being well, live for at least 10 - 12 years, probably
anything up to 15 years, and this equates to less than £80.00 per year of the
dogs life. You would not be able, for example, to buy a car for £800.00 and
expect it to last for 10 - 15 years of hopefully trouble free motoring!
Reputable breeders do not breed for financial gain (i.e. to make a profit);
however, they have to cover their costs (eventually!) in order to have money
available to continue to provide the best of care, food and meet vets bills for
subsequent litters. If a puppy is for sale at significantly less than the "going
rate,” you should assume economies have been made by the breeder.
Rearing puppies correctly costs money (lots of money!). Health testing parents,
providing the highest possible level of care, the best food, quality toys and
bedding, worming treatment, vet checks and micro chipping puppies etc. costs
more than rearing puppies to minimum standards and this naturally will be
reflected in the price.
Breeding is very expensive, time consuming and often heartbreaking to do
correctly. Reputable breeders put their heart and soul into each litter. A
reputable breeder screens each home carefully. They do this because each puppy
is not a commodity, it's a living breathing soul who has had a great deal of
emotional investment lavished upon it.
Buying a "cheap" puppy might seem like a good idea at the time; however, you
should be asking yourself why:
- The pup costs less than the "going rate"?
- What economies has a breeder made in order to sell their puppies for less?
- Perhaps there has been no costly
health testing of parents?
- Perhaps the pups and Mum haven't received quality food.
- Perhaps the litter hasn't been wormed regularly, vet checked, micro-chipped
etc.?
The list is endless, however if a puppy is sold at less than the "going rate"
you can be SURE economies have been made somewhere by the breeder! Raising
a
puppy correctly actually costs approximately the same amount of money that is
recouped in the puppy’s sale price – often more. Cheap puppies are cheap for a reason! |
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