Powerscourt Cocker Spaniels - Questions To Ask Breeders

Going to see a litter of pups can be a very exciting time & also quite daunting. Be sure to follow common sense & do not be guided by your heart alone! Here are a few questions you may wish to ask the breeder. The list is by no means infinite, but it should at least give you room for thought.

A good breeder will expect you to ask questions, he or she will also wish to know a great deal about you, your home and your lifestyle. Please be very cautious about breeders who are not interested in you or the home you are offering the puppy, equally so you should be cautious of a breeder who is not happy about you asking them any questions!

COST
	At some stage, you will need to enquire about the price of a puppy.
A difficult area to discuss is the cost of the puppy. Good quality puppies from reputable breeders will generally cost a little more than less well bred pups. Generally speaking, the old adage still applies of "you get what you pay for.” A breeder won't be offended at your enquiry about the price of a puppy but please remember that cost shouldn't be your first question! Beware of puppies offered for sale at less than the "going rate.” At the moment the average cost of a cocker puppy from a recognised kennel (i.e. not from the free ads papers, puppy farmers and "backyard" breeders etc.) is £750.00 - £900.00 (there is some regional variation in prices.) However, it is worth noting that some "backyard" breeders are now selling puppies for more than puppies from an experienced and reputable show breeder which is another reason why the cost of a puppy shouldn't be the deciding factor in choosing a breeder! Whilst the price of a well-bred puppy may seem excessive, you must remember that your dog should, all being well, live for at least 10 - 12 years, probably anything up to 15 years, and this equates to less than £80.00 per year of the dogs life. You would not be able, for example, to buy a car for £800.00 and expect it to last for 10 - 15 years of hopefully trouble free motoring! Reputable breeders do not breed for financial gain (i.e. to make a profit); however, they have to cover their costs (eventually!) in order to have money available to continue to provide the best of care, food and meet vets bills for subsequent litters. If a puppy is for sale at significantly less than the "going rate,” you should assume economies have been made by the breeder. Rearing puppies correctly costs money (lots of money!). Health testing parents, providing the highest possible level of care, the best food, quality toys and bedding, worming treatment, vet checks and micro chipping puppies etc. costs more than rearing puppies to minimum standards and this naturally will be reflected in the price. Breeding is very expensive, time consuming and often heartbreaking to do correctly. Reputable breeders put their heart and soul into each litter. A reputable breeder screens each home carefully. They do this because each puppy is not a commodity, it's a living breathing soul who has had a great deal of emotional investment lavished upon it. Buying a "cheap" puppy might seem like a good idea at the time; however, you should be asking yourself why: The pup costs less than the "going rate"? What economies has a breeder made in order to sell their puppies for less? Perhaps there has been no costly health testing of parents? Perhaps the pups and Mum haven't received quality food. Perhaps the litter hasn't been wormed regularly, vet checked, micro-chipped etc.? The list is endless, however if a puppy is sold at less than the "going rate" you can be SURE economies have been made somewhere by the breeder! Raising a puppy correctly actually costs approximately the same amount of money that is recouped in the puppy’s sale price – often more!

NUMBER OF LITTERS

How many litters does the breeder have each year?

Most ‘hobby’ breeders will have between one and four litters a year. An excessive number of litters can indicate the breeder is a commercial breeder. Remember that quantity vs. quality can be interchangeable! A person can breed one litter badly whereas another can breed 5 or 6 to high standards!

It is not unusual to find that show breeders (& working breeders) may have two litters simultaneously. Breeding plans (for future show/working dogs) are made years in advance. Breeders are often faced with seasons coinciding and will, after careful consideration of the work involved, breed two litters close together.

This is perfectly acceptable for show/working breeders but not the norm for "pet" breeders i.e. people who have no outside interest in dogs (showing/working etc.)

HEALTH SCREENING FOR HEREDITARY DISEASES
	Have the parents been screened for breed particular hereditary disease?
Conscientious & caring breeders will health screen their breeding stock! The only way to ensure the puppy you are buying is unaffected (or the risk of inheritance is minimal e.g. in the case of hip-scoring) with the known hereditary diseases (diseases where testing is available) is to ensure the parents of the puppy have been tested (& have appropriate results)! For Cocker Spaniels: - Both parent's should be DNA tested (or their genetic status known via parentage, with at least one parent being 'Clear') for prcd-PRA. The company responsible for PRA testing is OptiGen. The test is a DNA (genetic) test which looks for the presence or absence of the mutant gene responsible for the disease. Both parent's should be DNA tested (or genetically Clear via parentage) for FN. There are two companies responsible for FN testing : OptiGen and Antagene. The test is a DNA (genetic) test which looks for the presence or absence of the mutant gene responsible for the disease. Both parent's should be screened under the KC/BVA Eye Scheme by a Veterinary ophthalmologist and have "unaffected" results. Please note, this is a specific test, it is not a routine eye check-up carried out by a breeders own vet (unless of course he's a qualified eye panellist)! Ideally the parents of your puppy should have been hip scored (hopefully with scores equal to or below the BMS!) for signs of hip dysplasia? Hip scoring is carried out by the KC/BVA. Breeders who tell you that there is no need to test, as there are no problems in "their" dogs are "putting their head in the sand.” Of course there are no problems if you don't look for them, the only way to categorically say there are no health issues is to test your dogs and breed from dogs with appropriate results!

NUMBER OF BREEDS OWNED
	Does the breeder breed only Cockers (or perhaps one or two other breeds)?
If the breeder has a selection of puppies available from different breeds then the chances are high that this is a commercial breeder or puppy farmer and you should be wary of buying a puppy under these circumstances.

PUPPY/DOG LIVING ENVIRONMENT

Are the puppies reared in the house or a kennel?

If they are reared in the house, they should be confident and comfortable with their surroundings. If they are kennel reared and then brought into the house, unless well socialised by the breeder, they may well be nervous and timid about their surroundings.

The house should be clean (give or take a few stray dog hairs or paw prints!), homes with multiple dogs can be a bit "doggy" particularly if the weather is wet but should be basically clean and tidy.

If you arrive to find a less than clean house but the dogs are immaculate then you can assume that all the breeders’ time is taken up with caring for their dogs. However if the dogs and their kennel/living area are scruffy too then it might be wise to presume that little attention has been paid to either the dogs or their living conditions and you should seriously consider how committed the breeder is?

	Ask whether the breeder is a member of the Kennel Club Accredited Breeder Scheme?
Some, but not all, reputable breeders are members of the KC ABS. Unfortunately some less desirable breeders are also members of the scheme. Unless a breeder has been personally visited & inspected by a Breed Advisor from the Kennel Club, do not assume a breeder is reputable based solely on their ABS membership, always make your own mind up! Membership of the scheme is open to all breeders (including commercial breeders (the more discerning & the less discerning!), but excluding known 'puppy farmers'). Members are not normally inspected at the point of joining the scheme, as a result many poor breeders may be Accredited Breeders until the KC eventually get around to visiting them. In 2010, the KC appointed several more Breed Advisors & as a result, they are now able to move the inspection process forward a little faster than before. January - June 2010, following inspections, 20% of those visited have been found to be NOT meeting the requirements of the Scheme & have had their membership suspended. Additionally, 60% of members have resigned from the Scheme voluntarily to avoid an inspection. Good news in July 2010, at long last the KC have tightened up the health testing regulations that are mandatory for ABS, DNA testing for PRA & FN are now MANDATORY for Cockers - about time too! Undoubtedly this will lead to further resignations from the Scheme, however it has never been right & proper for a breeder who does not demonstrate a commitment to the health of their puppies to be members of a Scheme promoting health & welfare.

HEALTH & CONDITION
	Are the puppy's coats shiny and the dogs healthy looking?
Check the coat for signs of scurf or skin disease and parasites i.e. fleas or lice. Puppies with parasites can indicate a less than scrupulous breeder. Puppies should not be scratching themselves, the occasional scratch is normal, particularly if the room is warm. Continual scratching indicates skin problems or parasites.
	Does the puppy look plump and contented? Does the puppy look healthy?
Are the puppy's eyes, ears and bottom clean and free from any discharge or soiling? Check the puppies ears, healthy ears don't smell offensive (sometimes there is a slight "earthy" smell but this is quite normal). Puppies shouldn't have any obvious discharge from their eyes or ears & their bottoms should be clean too! Eyes should be bright, noses wet and the puppy should look in good condition. Puppies should be plump & cuddly. They should look well fed and not be bony, neither should they be 'pot bellied' as this can indicate a worm burden. Puppies should be appropriately lively and not lethargic. Depending on the time of your visit pups may be sleepy (it's their nap time or they've just been fed!), however once awake they should be busy, active & interested in their surroundings.
	Ask what age puppies leave their breeder?
Puppies should not leave their breeder before they are 8 weeks old, possibly older for smaller breed puppies. For socialisation & normal canine behaviour skills puppies should remain with their mother up to around 8 weeks of age. Taking a puppy home before he is at least 7 -8 weeks old will prevent him from learning valuable skills from his mother & will likely lead to a puppy that grows up with behavioural problems.
	Ask if the puppy will be Vet checked prior to leaving the breeder?
Good breeders will have their puppies fully examined by their Vet (to ensure they are physically healthy with no clinical signs of illness or parasites etc.) before the pups leave for their new homes. The Vet will also check for such things as heart murmurs, hernias, cleft palates, any other deformities and the presence of testicles (in males). As with all things controlled by nature it can occasionally be the case that some pups are not 100% perfect. Given full information about a condition (if any) both the breeder and purchaser can decide whether they wish to sell or buy the pup and whether the condition will have an impact on the pups future health and wellbeing. Minor problems don't usually have any detrimental effect on the pup or its ability to be a loyal and loving companion animal and you shouldn't automatically reject a puppy who is otherwise healthy, well reared and from a good breeder just because of, for example, a level bite (rather than a scissor bite). Reputable breeders will NEVER sell a puppy unless they are confident (by way of a thorough veterinary examination of the puppy) that the puppy is in good health and condition at the time of sale.
	Ask the breeder about health conditions occasionally found in the breed?
Reputable & knowledgeable breeders will be fully informed about any health issues known to occasionally crop up in the breed & should be able to tell you what they are, the causes, symptoms, possible treatments & any effect they may have on the wellbeing of a puppy/dog. They will also honestly tell you if any dogs of their breeding has ever encountered any of the conditions. Be wary of breeders who will tell you that there are no health problems in a breed. All breeds of dogs (mongrels/cross-breeds included) have some health issues (as do humans & other animals!) Dogs are living beings & just like any other living being, various ailments can occasionally occur.

SOCIALISATION
	Have the puppies been well socialised by the breeder?
Well socialised puppies (both by breeders and new owners) are more likely to grow into confident and friendly dogs. Poorly socialised dogs are likely to develop behavioural problems such as aggression and phobias. Good socialisation by the breeder is of paramount importance when choosing a puppy. Socialisation is an on-going process, the breeder should make a start, however new owners must continue the work. Good breeders will supply their puppy owners with recommended socialisation routines to help them continue to effectively socialise their puppy.
	Ask how the breeders have socialised the puppy?
Socialisation takes many forms, some is planned & some occurs naturally. Good breeders will make deliberate efforts to socialise puppies & not just rely on household activity. Puppies brought up in the home will normally be accustomed to ‘house-hold’ noises i.e. washing machines, vacuum cleaners, music & general household activities. This type of socialisation is important; however, it is the type that occurs naturally. Good breeders will also take puppies out for car rides, introduce them to other dogs in their ownership, introduce them to a wide variety of visitors to the home, introduce them to the garden, and acclimatise them to being handled/groomed. Many will play ‘sound CD’s’ (CD’s containing a wide variety of noises e.g. drills, fireworks, thunder etc.) as part of the process of 'habituating' a puppy to everyday occurrences.

POTENTIAL OF THE PUPPY

Is the puppy sold as a 'pet' or does the breeder feel he has possible show potential?

When buying a puppy for show and/or a puppy with the possibility of breeding from him/her in the future it's imperative that you choose/or are offered a puppy who is free from obvious show "faults". Check the bite (teeth) of the puppy to ensure they are a scissor bite and not undershot or a reverse scissor bite etc. (please keep in mind that mouths in particular can change on young pups), with a male puppy, check to ensure both testicles are descended into the scrotum.

In the case of pet pups, these issues are not quite as important. In an ideal world every pup born would have no obvious show "faults" however a healthy pup from a good breeder is more important than a 100% perfect show specimen. Honest breeders will advise you of any show "faults" a pup has and explain them fully. Minor issues with teeth, slow to descend testicles etc. do crop up from time to time, however if the pup is otherwise healthy this shouldn't overly influence your decision not to purchase the pup as a pet/companion.

Show 'faults' do not detract from an otherwise healthy and well bred/reared puppy, however when buying a puppy for show and/or possible breeding the future it is important that the puppy has no obvious 'faults' as these seldom improve as a dog matures. Breeding from any dog with an obvious deviation from the 'norm' is likely to perpetuate the fault in future generations.

If you are buying your pup from a "pet" breeder, it is unlikely that they will know what "show faults" are and will not normally be able to advise a would-be puppy buyer about the suitability of a puppy for the show ring. If you are buying, a puppy to show it would be wise to purchase your pup from a "show" breeder and not a "pet" breeder, breeders who show and/or judge the breed will have the knowledge to give you sound advice.

MEETING THE BREEDER
	Can you see the puppy’s mother?
You should be able to meet their mother; she should be comfortable with you (overall) although she may be a little concerned when you approach or handle her puppies (this is normal and quite understandable). How the mother looks and behaves will give you some indication as to how your new pup will develop. Please bear in mind that the mother might not be looking her best, its hard work rearing a litter and most bitches can look a little tired and their coats may be a little shabby due to the pups pulling at her coat! Maternal duties often mean that bitches will loose their coat and may look a little thin (despite eating vast quantities of food). Do not expect to see a glamorous show dog when you visit! However, the Mum should look well groomed, clean and healthy.
	Does the breeder make you feel welcome?
Committed & caring breeders are usually busy people; however, they welcome would-be owners in order that both the potential owners and the breeder can ensure that puppy ownership is right for the owner and that a breeder can feel comfortable that the new owners will provide a good home to the puppy. You should aim to meet your puppy, the litter & their mother prior to purchase. The breeder should ask you many questions & likewise you should be asking questions of the breeder. Please be courteous to breeders, they are normally welcoming you into their home and will be courteous to you, return the favour!

KENNEL CLUB REGISTRATION

Is the puppy registered with the UK Kennel Club?

Most puppies are registered with the UK Kennel Club, however some breeders choose not to register their ‘pet’ puppies, this doesn't make them disreputable. However if their pups are not registered, please do ask the reason why.

If their pups are registered, ask if your puppy is registered with The Kennel Club - there are alternative registries; however reputable breeders ONLY register their puppies with The Kennel Club. Dog Lovers Registration or Pedigree Pets Registration Club is not the equivalent to Kennel Club Registration!

Whilst KC registration is not a guarantee of quality or indeed proof of your puppy's pedigree, it is necessary if you plan to show, compete at some events with your dog or breed from him/her. Ensure the registration documents are given to you at the time of collecting your puppy. If for some reason they are not available at the time you collect your puppy, ensure that details about forwarding the registration documents to you are given in writing. Be very wary of a breeder who tells you they will forward the documents later.

Ask if the registration papers have been 'endorsed', if so ask the breeder to explain this to you and ensure mention of any terms relating to the restrictions is mentioned in your puppy sales contract.

HEALTH - WORMING & VACCINATIONS
	Has the puppy been regularly wormed?
All puppies (& their mothers) should be routinely & regularly wormed. Generally, this starts when a puppy is 2 - 3 weeks old & continues fortnightly whilst with the breeder. When a puppy moves to his new home, worming should continue fortnightly until a puppy is approximately 12 weeks old, thereafter worming may be monthly or upon the advice of an owner's vet.
	Does the breeder give information to the new puppy owner about worming & vaccinations?
Worming (to eradicate any naturally occurring worms found in puppies/dogs) in is important to the health of all puppies & dogs (& often human health) and good breeders should stress the importance of regular worming to their new puppy owners. All good breeders should routinely worm their puppies regardless of whether a worm burden is obvious. As breeders ourselves, we have NEVER seen one of our pups with worms or any of our adult dogs, however we treat all puppies/dogs for worms as a matter of routine on a regular basis. If breeders/owners study the lifecycle of Roundworms they will note that puppies become infected by Roundworms whilst still in the womb. Even with a fully wormed mother this event still happens. Therefore ALL puppies are born with worms. Fortunately the lifecycle means that worms do not become active for 2 - 3 weeks, therefore commencing worming of puppies at 2 - 3 weeks of age & repeated fortnightly (to mimic the lifecycle of the worm & to 'catch' any newly hatched worm eggs that were not killed at the previous worming i.e. two weeks earlier) will eradicate worms. A common parasite of dogs, especially puppies, is Roundworms. The scientific name for their group is called ascarids. Intestinal worms help themselves to your dog's food (via the digestive tract) and can damage the gut causing loss of blood. Worms can also cause diarrhoea, dehydration & anaemia, and this may make your puppy/dog susceptible to other diseases. If a dog or puppy has a large worm burden, he may cough, lose weight, and have a rough, dry coat or a 'pot-bellied' appearance. In puppies, a worm infection can be even more serious, causing poor growth and sometimes even death. If there are large numbers, of worms, the intestine can become blocked and this may also be fatal. The larval form of this parasite has the potential to cause serious disease in children and therefore for the health of a dog and the human family regular worming of puppies/dogs (using a veterinary supplied medication) should be undertaken. With regard to vaccinations, all puppies should ideally be inoculated against the common canine infectious diseases before venturing into the outside world. This is initiated either by a breeder or by a new owner. When to start the vaccination course varies from area to area and from vet to vet. Some breeders may vaccinate their puppies before sale with the first part of the Primary Vaccinations. Other breeders may choose not to, generally when breeders do not vaccinate it is due to conflicting advice regarding the brands of vaccine used. Sadly, many breeders who conscientiously vaccinate puppies before sale have found that the new owner's vet insists the course is started afresh due to using a different brand of vaccine. This advice is not correct; however, it doesn't seem to prevent a vet from insisting that the course should start again. Repeating a vaccination so soon after an initial vaccination is not good for the health of the puppy, cockers are a breed which occasionally suffer with Autoimmune related diseases & these may be triggered by over vaccination - don't let a vet put their desire to earn money over the welfare of your new puppy! The important thing to note is whether any vaccines have been given and when. If they have been given, new owners should be supplied with the 'Vaccination Record Card'. If no vaccines have been given, breeders should advise owners when the course should be started & give advice on keeping a puppy safe until vaccination has been completed.

PUPPY CARE PACK

Does the breeder supply each puppy with a care pack?

In our opinion, sound & comprehensive care advice for puppies is important. Clearly, a puppy is not a car or household item; however, most items we buy do come with 'user' instructions. We believe that this should apply to puppies.

Taking on a new puppy is a serious commitment & one that can be full of joy but equally can be hard work. Knowing how to correctly care for your puppy, how to train him, how to socialise him, groom him etc. has benefits for the puppy; it also enhances a new owners experience of dog ownership & can make ownership easier and more pleasurable for all concerned.

CONTRACTS & DOCUMENTS
	Does the breeder provide a Contract of Sale?
Good breeders always sell their puppies with a Contract. The document varies from breeder to breeder but broadly, it should contain details of the puppy, the pup’s parents, date of birth, KC reg. no., microchip no., details of 'endorsements' & the terms for lifting and full details about health/welfare together with the breeder’s commitment to the dog and the buyer. It will also stipulate the purchaser’s commitment to the puppy. Breeders who use contracts are being professional and showing their commitment to the pups they breed. As new owners, you should be reassured by a puppy Contract of Sale and not suspicious. Always read the contract before signing and if anything concerns you ask for clarification.
	What other documentation is supplied?
Usual documentation includes: Explanation about 'endorsements' (if applicable) Diet sheet Kennel Club registration documents Micro-Chip or tattoo registration form (showing details of the puppy & chip/tattoo number etc.) Pedigree (either KC supplied or breeder printed) Care advice/notes (socialisation/training/grooming/coping with play biting etc.) List of breed club secretaries DEFRA 'docking certificate' (if applicable - only certain dogs may be 'docked' & this should be undertaken legally & certified by the vet & breeder on official veterinary headed notepaper & signed by the vet & breeder) Do not buy a puppy with a docked tail unless the docking has been carried out legally & the breeder supplies you with the official DEFRA approved docking certificate (on headed vet notepaper & signed by the vet with the practice stamp). All details on the certificate should match the puppy you have bought including the micro-chip number (it is mandatory for the puppy to be 'chipped' by the vet who performed the docking).

ADVICE & SUPPORT
	Will the breeder be available to give support & advice after you get the puppy home & for the duration of your dogs life?
Good breeders always offer advice & support to the new puppy owners for the life of the dog (indeed many owners and breeders strike up lifelong friendships). Many puppies can lead their new owners a 'merry dance', having a supportive breeder at the end of the phone can make a huge difference to a new owners enjoyment of their puppy/dog. Many breeders will offer to 'board' dogs whilst owners are away from home, some will also have puppies/dogs back for re-training if the dog has become wayward due to inexperience in effective training by the new owners. Occasionally puppies/dogs may cause concern (mild illnesses, eating inappropriate items in the garden etc.) & caring breeders will be on hand to offer words of advice, reassurance and/or possibly advise you to consult your vet.
	Will the breeder take the puppy/dog back for re-homing or help the purchaser find a new home for the dog should this ever be needed?
When you buy your puppy, you should be planning to own the dog for his lifetime. Unfortunately, people's circumstances can change & despite their best intentions, some owners may in the future no longer be able to care for their dog. It is always hard parting with a much loved pet due to a change in circumstances and as responsible owners you will naturally want to secure you dog’s future. Returning a puppy/dog to his breeder is the kindest of all options. You will know the breeder & know they will care for the dog & you won’t be placing the burden of responsibility on hard pressed ‘rescue’ kennels. The dog will benefit greatly by going ‘home’ to his breeder & not having to face a kennel life when he is used to ‘home comforts’. Good breeders will always offer to re-home or help find a new home for the dogs they breed if the dog should unfortunately need a new home at some stage. Ask the breeder if re-homing the dog in the future (if needed) is mentioned in the Contract of Sale. Reputable breeders do not like to find out (after the event) that owners have parted with dogs as they like to know where their sold puppies/dogs are to ensure that they remain well cared for and loved.

INSURANCE

Will the breeder supply free insurance for the puppy during the first few weeks in its new home?

Good breeders usually arrange insurance cover for four or more weeks free of charge (the time span is dependent on the insurance company preferred by the breeder).

Despite being healthy in every regard, puppies are at their most vulnerable during their early weeks in a new owner's home. They can have paws trapped in doors, fall off furniture, eat fences & garden plants etc. which may result in veterinary attention being required. Today's advances in veterinary medicine & equipment can mean that vet bills are high. Even a simple visit can amount to hundreds of pounds.

Pet insurance is essential for puppies/dogs. When a breeder pre-arranges a free period of insurance this ensures the puppy has cover and gives new owners time to arrange continuous insurance. As responsible owners, do not place yourself in a position where the cost of treatment prevents you from meeting the health needs of your new puppy/dog.

HOBBIES/CANINE ACTIVITIES
	Ask the breeder what activities/hobbies they do with their dogs?
Reputable breeders will normally be involved with activities with their dogs i.e. dog showing, obedience, agility, field trials, shooting etc. etc. Be wary of breeders who only keep dogs as 'pets' or for breeding only as often these types of breeder have no commitment to the breed & may only keep dogs to earn an income.

BREED CLUB MEMBERSHIP
	Is the breeder a member of The Cocker Spaniel Club or other regional Cocker Spaniel Breed Clubs?
Reputable breeders will normally be members of several of the breed clubs. Ask which club's they are members of, they should also be known within the breed & not just members by way of application. If you are unsure whether a breeder is a member, you can contact the relevant breed club secretaries.

For Cocker Spaniels: -