Questions To Ask

Going to see a litter of pups can be a very exciting time & also quite daunting.  It can be very difficult to not rush over & grab the first lovely "Cockery" pup you see!

Be sure to follow your instincts & don't only be guided by your heart!  Here are a few questions you may wish to ask the breeder.  The list is by no means infinite but it should at least give you room for thought.

A good breeder will expect you to ask questions, he or she will also wish to know a great deal about you, your home and your lifestyle.  Please be very cautious about breeders who are not interested in you or the home you are offering the puppy, equally so you should be cautious of a breeder who is not happy about you asking them questions!

Before you begin your search for a dog, you should ask yourself if you have the time and commitment to devote to dog ownership.  Puppies in particular can be hard work & it may be that your circumstances aren't suitable at present.  Please use the "are you ready for a dog?" link below to help you decide.

  Are You Ready For A Dog?  Click Here!

A difficult area to discuss is the cost of the puppy.  Good quality puppies from reputable breeders will cost more than less well bred pups.  Generally speaking, the old adage still applies of "you get what you pay for".  A breeder won't be offended at your enquiry about the price of a puppy but please remember that cost shouldn't be your first question! 

Beware of puppies offered for sale at less than the "going rate".  At the moment the average cost of a cocker puppy from a recognised kennel (i.e. not from the free ads papers, puppy farmers & "backyard" breeders) is £650.00 - £900.00 (there is some regional variation in prices.)

Whilst the price of a well-bred puppy may seem excessive, you must remember that your dog will hopefully live for 10 - 15 years, this equates to less than £65.00 per year of the dogs life.  You would not be able, for example, to buy a car for £750.00 and expect it to last for 10 - 15 years of hopefully trouble free motoring!

Puppies from breeders who take the time to provide the highest standard of care for their dogs and puppies, who health screen the parents, vet check & micro-chip their pups, provide vaccinations & those who spend time socialising their puppies will charge between the middle & top end of the "going rate". 

Reputable breeders do not breed for financial gain (i.e. make a profit), however they have to cover their costs (eventually!) 

Health testing parents, providing the highest possible level of care, the best food, vet checks, micro chipping & socialising puppies costs more than rearing puppies to minimum standards & this will be reflected in the price.

Buying a "cheap" puppy might seem like a good idea at the time; however, you should be asking yourself why the pup costs less than the "going rate"?  What economies has a breeder made in order to sell their puppies for less?  Perhaps there has been no costly health testing of parents?  Perhaps the pups & Mum haven't received quality food.  Has the litter not been vet checked, micro-chipped or vaccinated?  The list is endless, however if a puppy is sold at less than the "going rate" you can be SURE economies have been made somewhere by the breeder!

How many litters a year does the breeder have? Most "hobby" breeders will have between two & four litters per year. Higher numbers of litters can indicate a commercial breeder.
It is not unusual to find that show breeders (& working breeders) may have two litters simultaneously.  Breeding plans (for future show/working dogs) are made years in advance.  Breeders are often faced with seasons coinciding and will, after careful consideration of the work involved, breed two litters close together.

This is perfectly acceptable for show/working breeders but not the norm for "pet" breeders i.e. people who have no outside interest in dogs (showing/working etc.)

Does the breeder breed only Cockers (or perhaps one or two other breeds)?  If the breeder has a selection of pups available from different breeds then the chances are high that this is a commercial breeder (puppy farmer) & you should be wary of buying a puppy under these circumstances.

Research what kind of health problems the breed has (most if not all breed's have some hereditary health problems), ask the breeder for more information?  Don't be fooled by a breeder who tells you their breed (or indeed their own dogs!) has no health problems - most breeds of dogs (including cross-breeds) have some hereditary problems.

If a breeder doesn't health screen (using ALL available tests i.e. OptiGen PRA/Antagene FN/Hip Score/BVA Eye Tests), how can they be sure there isn't a problem with their dogs (& their puppies)?

Have the parents been screened for breed particular hereditary disease?

For Cocker Spaniels: -

Both parent's should be KC/BVA Eye Tested by a veterinary ophthalmologist and have "unaffected" results for CPRA, GPRA & Glaucoma.  Please note, this is a specific test, it is not a routine eye check-up carried out by a breeders own vet!

Both parent(s) should be DNA tested (or genetically Clear via parentage) for prcd-PRA.  The company responsible for PRA testing is OptiGen.  The test is a DNA test which looks for the presence or absence of the mutant gene responsible for the disease.

Both parent(s) should be DNA tested (or genetically Clear via parentage) for FN.  There are two companies responsible for FN testing :  OptiGen & Antagene.  The test is a DNA test which looks for the presence or absence of the mutant gene responsible for the disease

Have the parent's of your puppy been hip scored (hopefully with low scores!) for signs of hip dysplasia?

Conscientious & caring breeders will health screen their breeding stock!  Without testing the parent's of puppies how can breeders ensure they produce healthy puppies?

Ask what date your puppy may leave his or her Mother.  Puppies should not normally leave their Mother & siblings before the age of 8 weeks or thereabouts. 

Are the puppies reared in the house or a kennel?  If they are reared in the house, they should be confident & comfortable with their surroundings.  If they are kennel reared & then brought into the house, unless well socialised by the breeder, they may well be nervous & timid about their surroundings at first.

The house should be clean (give or take a few stray dog hairs or paw prints!), homes with multiple dogs can be a bit "doggy" particularly if the weather is wet but should be basically clean even if they are a bit untidy!

If you arrive to find a less than clean house but the dogs are immaculate then you can assume that all the breeders’ time is taken up with caring for their dogs.  However if the dogs and their kennel/living area are scruffy too then it might be wise to presume that little attention has been paid to either the dogs or their living conditions & you should seriously consider how committed the breeder is?

Have the puppies been well socialised by the breeder?  Well socialised puppies (both by breeders & new owners) are more likely to grow into confident & friendly dogs.  Poorly socialised dogs are likely to develop behavioural problems such as aggression and phobias.  Goods socialisation is of paramount importance when choosing a puppy.

If they are kennel dogs & you see the actual kennel set-up, is there an odour? There will usually be a "doggy" smell but this shouldn't offensive. Are the kennels clean? Is the bedding/bowls/ floors & walls clean?

There is nothing wrong with buying a kennel reared puppy, hopefully the breeder will have paid just as much attention to care and socialisation as a breeder who rears their pups in their home.  It would be wise however to check that this is the case and that the pups are confident and are happy with people and household type noises etc.

Are the dog's coats shiny & the dogs healthy looking? Check the coat for signs of scurf or skin disease & parasites i.e. fleas or lice. Puppies with parasites can indicate a less than well run kennel. Ask the breeder if & when the puppy has been wormed?  Generally speaking pups (& their mother) should be wormed between 2 - 3 weeks of age and then fortnightly thereafter until they are 12 weeks old.  After this age the pup should be wormed upon the advice of your vet (usually every 1 - 3 months).
Does the puppy look plump & contented? 
Does the puppy look healthy? Are the puppy's eyes, ears & bottom clean & free from any discharge or soiling?  Check the puppies ears, healthy ears don't smell offensive (sometimes there is a slight "earthy" smell but this is quite normal).

Ask if the puppy will be Vet checked prior to leaving his breeder?  Good breeders will have their puppies fully examined by their Vet (to ensure they are physically healthy with no clinical signs of illness or parasites etc.) before the pups leave for their new homes.

The Vet will also check for such things as heart murmurs, hernia's, cleft palates, deformities & the presence of testicles (in males).  As with all things controlled by nature it can occasionally be the case that some pups are not 100% perfect. 

Given full information about a condition (if any) both the breeder & purchaser can decide whether they wish to sell or buy the pup & whether the condition will have an impact on the pups future health & wellbeing. 

Minor problems don't usually have any detrimental effect on the pup or it's ability to be a loyal and loving companion animal & you shouldn't automatically reject a puppy who is otherwise healthy, well reared and from a good breeder just because of, for example, a level bite (rather than a scissor bite).

When buying a show puppy &/or a puppy with the possibility of breeding from him/her in the future it's imperative that you choose/or are offered a puppy who is free from obvious show "faults".  Check the bite (teeth) of the puppy to ensure they are a scissor bite (please keep in mind that mouths in particular can change on young pups), with a male puppy, check to ensure both testicles are fully descended into the scrotum. 

In the case of pet pups these issues are not quite as important.  In an ideal world every pup born would have no obvious show "faults" however a healthy pup from a good breeder is more important than a 100% perfect show specimen.   Honest breeders will advise you of any show "faults" a pup has and explain them fully.  Minor issues with teeth etc. do crop up from time to time, however if the pup is otherwise healthy this shouldn't overly influence your decision not to purchase the pup.

Can you see the puppies mother? You should be able to meet their mother, she should be friendly with you although she may be a little concerned when you approach her puppies (this is normal and quite understandable).   How the mother looks and behaves will give you some indication as to how your new pup will develop.

Please bear in mind that the mother might not be looking her best, it's hard work rearing a litter & most bitches don't look their best at this time!  Part of the process of being a Mum means that bitches will loose their coat and may look a little thin (despite eating vast quantities of food).  Do not expect to see a glamorous show dog when you visit!  However, the Mum should look well groomed and clean.

Most puppies are registered with the UK Kennel Club.  Ask if your puppy is registered with The Kennel Club - there are alternative registries, however reputable breeders ONLY register their puppies with The Kennel Club.  Dog Lovers Registration is not the equivalent to Kennel Club Registration!

Whilst KC registration is not a guarantee of quality or indeed proof of your puppy's pedigree; it is necessary if you plan to show, compete at some events with your dog or breed from him/her.  Ensure the registration documents are given to you at the time of collecting your puppy. Be very wary of a breeder who tells you they will forward the documents at a later date. 

Ask if the registration papers have been endorsed, if so ask the breeder to explain this to you & ensure mention of any terms relating to the restrictions are mentioned in your Contract.

Look at the pedigrees - you may not be able to recognise any dogs, but you should at least be able to tell whether this is a brother/sister or father/daughter or otherwise close breeding.  If it is a close breeding, ask the breeder to explain the reason why.  Not all close breeding's are detrimental, however they should only be undertaken by experienced breeders and not just because it was more convenient to use a stud dog because he was convenient.
Will the puppy have a schedule for vaccinations & routine worming?
Does the breeder give a pack of information to the new puppy owner that includes a diet sheet, basic care & training information?  Good breeders will provide comprehensive information with their puppies.
Does the breeder provide a Contract of Sale?  Good breeders always sell their puppies with a Contract.  The document varies from breeder to breeder but broadly it should contain details of the puppy, the pups parents, date of birth, KC reg. no., micro-chip no. and full details about health/welfare and the breeders commitment to the dog and the buyer.  It will also stipulate the purchasers commitment to the puppy.
Will the breeder be available to give support & advice after you get the puppy home and for the duration of your dogs life?  Good breeders always have a good "after sales" service!
Will the breeder supply free insurance for the puppy during the first few weeks in it's new home? Good breeders usually arrange this cover for six - twelve weeks free of charge.
Reputable breeders will normally (although not always) be involved with activities with their dogs i.e. dog showing, obedience, agility etc. etc.
Will the breeder take the puppy/dog back for re-homing or help the purchaser find a new home for the dog should this ever be needed? Good breeders offer a lifetime commitment to the dogs they breed.
Is the breeder a member of the Cocker Club or other Cocker Breed Clubs?
Is the breeder a member of any local breed/training or obedience clubs?

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